KRUGER OR BUST!
Sian and Cara go "wild" in South Africa's most legendary destination
What happens when you release two Cape Town safari gurus in the wilds of South Africa's Greater Kruger on an expedition to update themselves on what's hot and hip in this superlative safari Mecca? One helluva road trip is what. And expert advice on some of the most fabulous lodges and camps known to man and beast. So, without further ado...
(Cue trumpet fanfares and rolls of drums)...
"We had to do it," says Sian, straight-faced. "It had been years since we'd caught up with the hotspots in South Africa's safari capital, so we just had to go and test drive as many lodges and camps as we could..." She gives an apologetic shrug of the shoulders to accompany the deadpan visage. It's Cara who breaks first. "Such a hard job," she grins at Sian, who finally crumbles into a chuckle over a glass of particularly fine South African red.
Our dynamic duo are sitting on the stoep of a property in Hoedpsruit Wildlife Estate as dusk falls. A hyena whoops somewhere close by in this idyllic paradise that's their overnight stop before launching themselves on a two-week tour de force of the Greater Kruger National Park, taking in the Timbavati, Klaserie and Thornybush private reserves.
Hoedspruit is the hub for this region and South Africa's de facto safari capital, bursting with things to do and see before letting loose on the wilderness that virtually surrounds it. Eastgate Airport is linked with multiple direct flights from Johannesburg and Cape Town each day and is flooded with fetching young men in khaki and open safari vehicles, whisking international guests off on safari in what is one of the most popular safari destinations in Africa.
A short drive from the airport lay Sian and Cara's targets - a clutch of safari lodges that offer an array of stunning retreats, each with its unique charm and fabulous amenities, ready and waiting for their seal of approval. But first, a good night's sleep in preparation for the pair's expedition is required. And is had.
It all begins at first light the following morning when Cara climbs behind the wheel of the fetching rental SUV and Sian pops her Zafaris cap on and climbs in beside her. And so, to work...
The Klaserie Private Nature Reserve and its neighbouring Timbavati and Thornybush private reserves are a short 30-minute drive from Eastgate Airport and part of the Greater Kruger National Park - the sprawling swathe of wilderness that's an extension of the famous Kruger National Park courtesy of the removal of fences on neighbouring properties that's created a safari paradise bursting with life.
Here, then, are Cara and Sian's notes that form the ultimate South African safari crib sheet for those who want the inside edge on where to stay in this neck of the woods...
Camp George is part of the Simbavati stable of lodges and camps in this part of the Greater Kruger provides a beautiful surprise for its guests. The camp's intimate rooms feature outdoor showers and overlook a dry riverbed, creating a peaceful and secluded atmosphere. Although there are no private plunge pools, the outdoor showers more than make up for it. The Amani homestead a short drive away is ideal for families or friends travelling together, offering an extremely intimate setting.
Highlights: The gardens are insane, with all rooms facing the dry riverbed.
A neat, beautiful gem. The garden rooms, though small, are charming and equipped with outdoor showers. The views from the pool are spectacular, ensuring that guests in garden rooms don't feel left out. The lodge is also expanding with the addition of another family room.
Highlights: Elephant viewing from the pool area was spectacular and unique for this part of the reserve!
A hidden treasure perfect for friends or families seeking exclusive use. With only four rooms, each uniquely designed and featuring outdoor showers, the camp feels like a secret garden. The main pool area and quaint dining options enhance its home-away-from-home vibe.
Boasting incredible views from its main area, the camp’s layout requires good mobility due to numerous stairs and boardwalks. Each room has a separate bathroom and an outdoor shower, and all rooms include private plunge pools, adding to the luxurious experience.
An old colonial-style safari experience with absolutely brilliant luxury rooms and impressive bathrooms. The camp caters excellently to Kosher and vegan guests. The waterhole hide is brilliant. The Waterbuck Villa is ideal for families, and the garden room is perfect for grandparents or couples travelling with family, offering lovely views over the riverbed.
Highlights: Their new hide is magnificent!
A modern, fresh, and intimate camp best suited for families or friends. With only six passengers per vehicle, the safari experience is exclusive. Though there are no private plunge pools, the main pool area and outdoor showers suffice. The camp currently outsources spa treatments to nearby King's Camp and Kambaku.
This reimagined camp leaves guests in awe with its luxury accommodations, making it popular among younger, trendy guests and families. Each room features a private plunge pool, and the camp offers excellent spa, gym, and pool facilities. Notably, Tanda Tula operates entirely off the grid.
This traditional tented camp offers a beautiful yet simple safari experience deep in the Timbavati. Tents with riverbed views or remote bush locations are recommended for privacy. The camp features a lovely pool area and a lounge for relaxation, though there are no in-room charging points; instead, guests use a charging station in the main lodge.
A brand-new tented experience with breathtaking views of a waterhole from all rooms. While it lacks private plunge pools, a spa, and a gym, it compensates with outdoor showers and a serene main swimming pool area. The camp is quiet and off the grid, offering excellent game viewing despite limited vehicle availability.
Highlights: The waterhole in front of the camp is very active, and you hear sounds of the hippos at night. It's VERY intimate and the rooms, main areas and boma all encircle the waterhole. It's definitely a gem of a find in the Timbavati and is deep in the reserve so you're not going to see lights.
This camp stands out with its prime location in Thornybush on a dry riverbed and its unique, cave-like main area design. The modern, beautifully decorated rooms in tones of pink and green, styled like Bedouin tents, offer a romantic and luxurious experience.
Wow! This place is the mutt's nuts and excels in service and culinary experiences, offering gourmet meals, fine dining, and exceptional wines curated by an on-duty sommelier. The camp’s guides are some of the best and most qualified in the Greater Kruger area, ensuring an unparalleled safari experience. The service is outstanding, the art collections unreal and the rooms insane.
Highlights: The service and luxury are off the charts!
Each of these lodges offers a unique and luxurious safari experience, making South Africa a premier destination for wildlife enthusiasts and luxury travellers alike.
Find of the trip: KwaMbili in Thornybush - a most unexpected find. Quaint and full of love.
Overall impressions:
We think the Klaserie, Timbavati and Thornybush are really underrated and we encourage people to come with us on safari to these destinations, which we think give the more renowned Sabi Sand a run for its money! Each and every lodge we visited was unique and on top of its game. This area is definitely hot, hot, HOT!
Text: Sharon Gilbert-Rivett
